Replacing ignition coils in 2004 Mazda MPV

Originally posted on August 12, 2009.

Turns out the Mazda MPV, unlike most of the older cars that I’ve been familiar with, has an ignition coil for each cylinder — six coils in total. Long story short, failed ignition coils seem to be a common problem in Mazda MPVs from 2001 through 2006. My first failed coil happened about a year ago, and manifested itself through hesitation and jerking while driving once the engine had warmed up, along with a check engine light. When it happened the first time, I took it to the dealership and had the coil replaced for around $250 total (roughly half parts, half labor).

About two months ago, the car started jerking and hesitating again, and it gradually got to the point where it took a good amount of gas-pedal-coaxing to get it to hold 25 mph up a steepish hill. I decided that rather than taking it in to the dealership for another $250, I’d just order a new set of coils and replace all six at once myself. This ended up being a little more work than I had anticipated, but, all in all, was a great success and not too difficult, and certainly well worth the potentially huge savings I netted by avoiding a trip to the shop.

Firstly, the subject of acquiring the coils. The coils seem to run anywhere from $65 to $100 when ordered individually or purchased from an auto parts place. Here is what you are looking for:

Now, rather than paying a lot for all six and buying them individually, order a set of six from Amazon using the link here.

These will fit a 2002 through 2006 MPV, and possibly a year or two under or over.

You’ll need a ratchet with a few metric sockets (8mm, 10mm and 12mm). You’ll also need a short extension, and if you want to replace the spark plugs while you’re in there (I highly recommend you do so), you’ll need a longer (8″ or so) extension and a 5/8″ spark plug socket.

I took pictures while I did mine, but ended up losing them later. Fortunately, MPVClub.com has a great writeup on how to replace the coils.

Comments are now closed, but the original comment archive is listed here for posterity.


Clark - November 29, 2009 at 9:30 am

Hi Jacob. I take it the coils from global-automotive proved to be of good quality? They don’t appear to state which manufacturer they are from so was just wondering. A note to anyone who is going to change out the coils yourself it’s a good idea to change the plugs at the same time since the rear plugs are accessible with the intake manifold off, unless they have already been changed recently. I have already changes out two coild and should change out the other four (because they always seem to fail while on holidays!).

Lies Rosema - December 2, 2009 at 8:07 am

I already left a comment, but I wanted to comment again now that the work has been done. We got the IAC valve according to this post, and also did ignition coils according to the other post, and spark plugs. The computer codes indicated some coil problem. The mechanic said we might as well do spark plugs while he was working on the engine. All told, we replaced the IAC valve, all six ignition coils, and all six spark plugs. We bought the valve from the link above (Parts Geek) and the coils from the eBay store posted above. We got nice platinum +4 plugs at AutoZone. Since we are not car savvy, our mechanic did the work. The total we paid for parts and the labor was about $400. Not that bad considering how much it would have cost for the dealership or a commercial chain type mechanic to do all their own “diagnosis”. My van is running better now than when I bought it. We also had the trans fluid done (in addition to the cost I gave). I’m not sure if it was the valve or the coils or both. The valve was done a few weeks before everything else, and we didn’t have any problems between (we went on a 700mi trip between).

My friend’s MPV does the same things so now she’s going to ask my mechanic to fix hers.

Jacob - December 2, 2009 at 10:21 am

Clark, I’m not sure where the coils were manufactured — I probably should have looked on the boxes when I was swapping them in to see if there was any additional information there. They looked very similar to the OEM coils and actually looked identical to the one coil that had already been replaced by the dealership. Additionally, I’ve put around 10,000 miles on them since replacing and no problems yet.

Clark - December 2, 2009 at 9:14 pm

Thanks Jacob. I was looking at these same coils earlier this summer (after our holidays) but was apprehensive to purchase since the picture of the coils is of very poor quality..and I have been stung lately on ebay with cheap imports from China. I will pick up a pack of six and perhaps finally have a relaxing holiday next summer! Great site by the way…

James - January 5, 2010 at 8:25 am

I replaced the coil in cylinder #3 with th$42 coil from advanced auto parts. Its now failing less than a year later and I am going to try replace the BWD part under the one year warranty. Since I have to do the repair. I plan to replace the rear coils with the OEM manufacturer. Anyone know who that is? Motorcraft?

Antonino - January 19, 2010 at 9:31 am

Hi Jacob,

Firstly, thank you for this post. It has already been a huge help. Secondly, I was wondering if you can answer a few questions for me. My friend recently brought his 2004 Mazda MPV in to the Mazda dealer for a check engine light. They told him that one of his ignition coils needed to be replaced, and that they recommended he replace all 6 at once. The grand total: (drum roll) $900. Since we are both in grad school we wont see this kind of money for at least another 4 years. Anyways, other than the parts you mentioned that we need, what tools would we need, where would we be able to find a manual or instructions for this procedure, and how much time should we put aside to possibly do this ourselves? If you have any advice or can give us the steps on how to do this, we would be more than thankful. Thank you in advance for any help.

Antonino

Jacob - January 19, 2010 at 10:41 am

Antonino,

I’d definitely recommend replacing all six at once, but $900 is a lot of money, and you’d probably be better off doing it yourself. It will take the better part of an afternoon, but should be worth it in money saved.

I’m working on a write-up of the coil replacement procedure but it’s only partially complete. Here is a fairly complete write-up: http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=17565

Those instructions also outline spark plug replacement, which you don’t have to do (though it might not be a bad idea; otherwise, you won’t need the spark plug socket).

Additionally, the instructions recommend draining the coolant before you begin. I didn’t find this to be necessary, and instead just used a couple of spare bolts to plug the one or two coolant hoses that get disconnected in the process.

Here’s where to buy the coils: http://stores.ebay.com/abcmarts-Power-Pro-Products__W0QQ_sidZ84384258?_nkw=mazda+mpv+coil&submit=Search

In case that retailer doesn’t have any when you check, you are looking for the “DG513 UF406″ ignition coils.

Felix - January 29, 2010 at 6:30 am

My moms van had some problems, the CEL came on, it said a spark plug missfire; changed the spark plugs almost $300 just in labor; a few weeks it bagan to idle rough (when at a stop ligth) the CEL came on again and now it said something with coil #1; I looked around and I find this website with a walkthroug on how to change the spark plus or the coils. Also found a website with the prices are real low; it appears that the2005 for taurus uses the same coil.

Here are the links http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=17565&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=coil+pack&start=60

http://www.onlinewholesaleparts.com/fdic-005.html

DG513

Dannysentme - February 6, 2010 at 8:13 pm

Hello everyone,

This is a great forum. Inspired by all of you and the post above, I ended up doing my own work and replaced the back three coils and plugs. I gave a write up on the mpvclub.com forum and even posted pics of my 2004 MPV. Check it out here:

http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=23912&highlight=2004+mpv+coil+plug+replacement

I hope this helps someone that was in agony like I was, now I’m happy.

Thanks!

Dannysentme

Danni - April 21, 2010 at 4:14 pm

I have a 2004 MPV van which I love, the problem is that it is stalling both on the interstate doing 75 and also it appears to stall when slowing down (approaching light etc). The TCS light stays on unless I turn the engine off. It always starts right up if I turn the engine completely off, but if I just put it in neutral and restart, sometimes it will and sometimes not but the TCS light will always stay on. I took it to a mechanic and he put it on the computer and he said it needed a transmission remitter (I think thats right) $350 later problem not solved same issue on the way home from the shop. It seems like every where I turn on the forums I am reading about coils…..do you think this could be causing my problem?

Jacob - April 21, 2010 at 4:23 pm

Danni, based on the fact that it is stalling when slowing down, I’d say the IAC valve is definitely at fault. Replacing it as described in this post should fix the issue: http://neveradudelikethisone.com/2009/03/2004-mazda-mpv-stalling-and-rough-idle-replacing-the-idle-air-control-iac-valve

I never had any instances of stalling while traveling at freeway speeds (except, of course, when I slowed down), but the IAC valve may be at fault there as well.

If, after replacing the valve, you notice occasional “skipping” or general loss of power after 10-15 minutes of driving (and also still have a TCS light), it’s quite likely that one or more of the coils are at fault. Dannysentme’s how-to guide is really helpful (see the last comment before yours), and the coils are pretty cheap compared to what a dealership or mechanic will charge you.

edwin - May 10, 2010 at 7:00 am

its a shame that all these same veh has this problem,,nitheir the mazda dealer or who ever did the modification on mazda never fix it,,,not even the people that sold us this veh kept quite about it ,,my mazda has being in the shop for this problem 5 times they told me that the last time it was there it was just going to cost me $100.00 but they came back to me and told me that they was two other coils that where bad .the total cost was $316.22…but since the veh is not fully pay for and is my wife veh the only thing is to order the whole set and wait till it happens again ,,,,,,I wish this mail goes directly to the mazda corparation and fix the problem on these van ,,,,i personally love this mazda mvp ,,,

Joel - May 13, 2010 at 1:20 pm

Thanks for your insights. I own a 04 MPV and we are, as I type getting the #1 coil replaced. Several years ago, while the van was still under warranty a dealer replace the #5 coil. I’m wondering, with all of the problems, clearly a design issue why this hasn’t been a recall issue that Mazda has needed to pay for? Just a thought. Also, looks as if we are going to need the two Catalytic converters replaced also. Great, just great!

Dave - June 1, 2010 at 7:54 am

We have an 04 MPV, and it’s having similar issues. But on our van, the symptoms start when the engine is cold. (mild jerks and hesitations.) They gradually go away as it gets up to operating temperature. But I’m still assuming it’s got a bad coil.

I understand the wisdom of replacing all three rear coils at the same time. but is there a way to actually tell which coil is bad or which is going bad? (By the way, CEL has never come on this whole time.)

Thanks!

Jacob - June 7, 2010 at 2:33 pm

Dave, that’s interesting, since mine always ran fine when cold and got bad as it warmed up. Still guessing it’s the coils, though. If you do get a CEL, you can read the code (with a code reader, or have a mechanic do it) to determine which coil is bad; otherwise there’s no easy way that I know of to test.

Jeff D - June 15, 2010 at 4:41 am

I certainly thank all that wrote above, I have a 03 MPV with simular problems. It is certainly a defect issue. I was wanting to add that my 01 F-150 has about the same setup (coil for each plug) and have had the same trouble. I have changed 2 coils in it. Thanks again for the site info this will save some money.

HemM - June 30, 2010 at 8:07 am

Thanks for your post. I have Mazda MPV and have problem with the right hand side power sliding door. Not able to open or close using driver side switch or door side switch. Any idea what issue might be? Some of the auto forums talks about fuses to be replaced and not sure that is the specification of the fuse that is responsible for the power sliding door. Thanks again!

JC - July 21, 2010 at 11:46 am

Ditto on the coil problems. I’m so angry at Mazda for playing dumb on this matter, I doubt I’ll be buying another Mazda.

We’ve had multiple coil failures on our ’03. Sometimes the CEL comes on, other times it doesn’t. I think what’s happened it one coil will fail with no CEL, and once the second one fails, it’ll finally kick on the CEL.

Beware, it seems that running with a failed coil will foul the catalytic converter and cause it to eventually fail. This is expensive if it’s beyond the warranty period for emission parts.

Michael - August 5, 2010 at 3:31 pm

I had an ’01 MPV with the same problem. I replaced all the coils about 3 times starting around 50K – 120K when I sold it. I purchased an ’04 with 55K miles and have just had to replace all 6 (after I just replaced 2 coils 6mths ago, then the problem started again, so I now just had all 6 replaced). I live in Florida, so both times on this ’04 MPV it acted up when it rained. No problem when dry. I should have checked this sight as I was quoted between $109-$135 a coil at different shops. This trip to the mechanic cost me $824 for all six to be replaced. I hope I at least get the usual 50K miles out of it. Now I’ll order a set of 6 from the link above on Ebay to have them on hand WHEN it happens again (to save myself at least $400 in parts alone)!

Donielle - August 16, 2010 at 4:51 am

Some one asked above how you can tell which one has failed… is there a way you can tell without going to the dealership?

Jacob - August 20, 2010 at 7:28 am

Donielle, I’m not entirely sure, but I think if you read the codes using an OBDII reader, the resulting code(s) will tell you which cylinders are misfiring and have coil problems. You can get a code reader at Amazon for $31.

The cylinders are numbered in this order, as though you’re looking down at the engine with the hood open (left side is passenger side, right is drivers, top row is rear, bottom row is front closest to you):

1 2 3 4 5 6

So, if cylinder 3 is the one that is showing a misfire, it’s the one in the rear that’s closest to the drivers side.

Typically, the ones in the rear are the ones that fail first, because they are exposed to the greatest amount of heat. The front three receive relatively little heat exposure (and they’re the easiest to replace).

Glen Bramlitt - August 26, 2010 at 9:33 am

First, I wanted to say that this site is a LIFE SAVER!!

My situation: 2002 MPV ES. 151k+ miles

Recently, it started jerking/jumping at idle. Mainly when in gear at a red light or something. The feeling is similar to having it in gear and pulsing the gas pedal. My wife freaks because she thinks we’re going to hit the car in front of us.

Reading online, I thought it might be the IAC, but it sounds as though mine is a coil problem. At least, I’m hoping. A friend hooked his sensor machine thing up to it and in addition to an EGR code and misfire code, P0031 and P0051 came up. That is the O2 sensor codes. Could bad O2 sensors cause the jumping/jerking motion? Or could the bad coils trip something with the O2?

My local mechanic quoted $2100 [parts & labor] for 4 O2 sensors, 6 coils, 6 coil boots [aren’t these included when you buy a coil?], 6 plugs, and 1 air filter. Taking out the O2 sensor work portion, the estimate was about $1168. If I do the work, I can do it for $317.

I have to take a long trip Saturday and I don’t want to be on the road with this problem. Advance Auto and O’Reilly want $65 each for coils. I am getting the coils from the ebay store listed above and they do overnight for $65 [I’m STILL saving money!].

Alldatapro.com says that spark plugs take 2.5 hours. So, I’m going to follow the referenced guide and do the plugs and coils myself. I’m going to blow out the IAC valve for good measure. Someone else also suggested spraying carb cleaner on the air intake valve.

Any other suggestions/warning? Thanks in advance.

Jacob - August 26, 2010 at 10:31 am

Hey Glen, Definitely sounds like coil(s), especially given the gas pedal pulsing — that’s the same feeling I got. I’m guessing that the O2 sensor codes are a side effect of the other problems. When I had my first coil replaced at the dealership (before figuring out how to do it myself), they pulled the codes and explained that the ECU tries to compensate for misfires by enriching the air/fuel mixture, which can lead to other weirdness. Truly bad O2 sensors might result in the vehicle running poorly or a check engine light that won’t go away, but they shouldn’t (to my knowledge, anyway) result in misfiring or hesitation.

You’re right, the coil boots do come with the coil; in fact, they are an integral part of the coil pack assembly and unless someone can explain otherwise, I’d be suspicious of any “oh ya, you gotta buy the boots too” claim.

Doing the spark plugs is a great idea, since they are super easy to get to as long as you’re doing the coils. You’ll just need a plug socket (not sure on the exact size, but you can find out and get one at your local auto parts store) and a long socket extension or two to reach down into the hole. Since the plugs are seated fairly deeply, take care when putting the new ones in so as to avoid cross-threading them. (That’s why rubber-lined plug sockets are nice, because you can stick the new plug in the socket and thread it in by hand with a good amount of control.)

Troy - September 25, 2010 at 12:48 pm

Hi, I am looking at purchasing a 2003 MPV with 112k miles on it. I can probably get it for around 4500 and that seems pretty good for the market here. After reading all of the posts, i realize that i will have to replace the coils at some point (current owner/seller stated that he has replaced three already) but i wonder if i would be better off spending my 45oo on another vehicle? I like the Pacifica but dont want to spend an additional 4+k on a vehicle that has its own problems.

I am not looking for anyone to make my mind up for me just some constructive inputs.

Thanks.

Heather Stanat - October 1, 2010 at 9:18 am

I was about to take my van in to the dealer and pay $900 when my boss found this page for me. Even with a friend getting coils 1/2 price parts would have cost $280. I just ordered the 6pk coils from Amazon ($146 with shipping) and will visit Autozone for the plugs. My husband and I plan to tackle this project together and I am thrilled to save so much money! Thank you!

Keely B - November 16, 2010 at 10:13 pm

My 2001 MPV started a nice check engine flicker recently so I asked a shop to run a check on it. It read P0303 which is #3 misfire. My question is should I be replacing the ignition coil pack back by the firewall (right up against the OHC) or am I completely off the mark? I looked at the walkthru and honestly it looks scary ^-^ (I knew things were going too smoothly lol)

Stacy - December 17, 2010 at 9:43 am

I have a 2002 Mazda MPV which has 151k miles. Thanksgiving we replaced the first coil and plug. It is now doing the jerkin stuff again. Took it in and the diagnostic show it misfiring. Mechanic is assuming it is another coil and plug. Can’t afford to keep doing this. My question to all of you is: Once you start replacing the ignition coils how long are they lasting? If you are doing it yourself is it very difficult to change out? Thanks for any feedback.

Jacob - January 4, 2011 at 5:17 pm

Stacy, since replacing my coils, I’ve put another 45,000 miles on the van with no problems whatsoever. The new coils are working great.

In your position, I’d go ahead and replace all six, or at least the five that haven’t been replaced yet. Depending on what your mechanic is charging you for the coils, you may be able to get a better deal by buying them yourself (from the Amazon link in this article). Labor time for replacing all six should not be more than two hours for an experienced mechanic.

Jacob - January 4, 2011 at 5:20 pm

Keely, you’re correct, the one that is misfiring is the one in the rear closest to the driver’s side of the vehicle. The plug/coil order is: 123 456

The walkthrough looks a bit scary because there are a relatively large number of small steps, but you’ll probably find that it all goes back together pretty simply. Just take it slow, make notes, keep your parts/bolts/etc. organized — you might even find it helpful to take pictures as you go, in case you need to look back at something when you’re reassembling.

JM - January 5, 2011 at 3:58 pm

There is one thing I don’t understand. I have taken several cars to over 200K in my life time. (Purchased new). None of them ever had any ignition coil or any pcv hose or any other hose problem.

I mad the mistake of buying a Mazda (2004 MPV). The engine misfired at less than 20K. At that time it was under warranty. The dealer replaced pcv hose, trans range switch and #2 coil and plug.

The tires wore out when it had less than 20K miles.

Now it has less than 31K. About two weeks back I was going on vacation when the light came on when the engine misfired. I turned around came back home and switched to a Honda car with more than 110K on it.

Back from vacation I plugged in the code reader and found it is # 3 misfire. I then went on the internet trying to find what and how much work is involved.

One thing I noticed is than this seems to be consistent and persisten problem with Mazda MPV cans. So it appears to \be either a design problem or a poor quality part (the coil). Because people seem to be changing the coils all the time. And changing the coil again after changing the coil again.

But thanks for all the input from everybody. I am going to try to fix this myself and will share my experience if successful

Jacob - January 5, 2011 at 4:14 pm

JM, I agree, the coils seem to be of fairly poor quality since this is clearly a large problem. This post gets close to hundreds of visits per day from people searching on Google for terms like “mazda mpv coil”, so one can only imagine how widespread the problem must be.

Part of the issue is that the rear coils (the ones that tend to fail first, it seems) are exposed to a lot of heat due to the configuration of the engine in this vehicle. However, the fact that the replacements don’t seem to be affected tells me that the originals are questionable. Ford Escapes of similar model years with the same Duratec 30 engine have similar issues but not as commonly.

All in all, I’ve been pretty happy with my MPV, and the coil failure and IAC valve failure are the only problems I’ve had thus far. However, both issues seem to be big enough to be recall-worthy, and I doubt we’ll ever see that happen, unfortunately.

ScottM - January 6, 2011 at 11:47 pm

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to add my two bobs worth. I know this is the MPV site but i own a 2001 Tribute and i am about to go through the same exact thing with coils going. i have already had one coil replaced after poor performance and now, straight after a service, i get the “good” news that two more are kaput. the cost for me here in Australia is absolutely ridiculous at $2500 plus. When i found this site i was in seventh heaven!! Now tell me..Does the same configuration for my Tribute apply as per the MPV motor? From the walkthrough about changing the coils in this website it appears like the exact same engine 3.0l DOHC.

Anyway thanks for the excellent assistance so far without even knowing it!!.

Cheers,

Scott.

Jacob - January 7, 2011 at 12:06 am

Right, the engine in the Tribute is the same Duratec 30 as the MPV. Good luck!

Keith - January 8, 2011 at 8:33 am

2002 Mazda Tribute has plastic upper and lower intake manifolds. Code reader may show #3 cylinder misfire when the #6 (adjacent cylinder due to waste fire spark?) is actually the bad coil. I have an ’02 and an ’04 Tribute. The ’02 coils failed at about 100K and the ’04 just now failed at 115K. I got my first coils at Advance Auto Parts. I just purchased 6 more at $62 ea. + plugs + intake gaskets + fuel filter and whatever other hoses it may need while I am in there

Jonathan - February 23, 2011 at 11:44 am

How to Install 2006 Mazda MPV oxygen sensors if you can ilustrate

Renee K - March 15, 2011 at 9:30 pm

I purchased my used 2004 Mazda MPV in 2007. Since then I have changed spark plugs and ignition coils 3 times. I just did this search because my CEL just came on and according to my CarMD, it is my spark plugs and my #2 Ignition coil. I just feel so irritated that I have to keep spending money to fix this same problem. I mean I just fixed this a year ago. I don’t know anyone who will work on it for a low cost, so I am constanly having to go to a mechanic, spending easy $600 everytime this happens. I was starting to doubt my driving. It’s sad that this is so common and that it continues to happen even after we fix the problem, but I am relieved to hear that it is not just me. This usually happens when it rains heavily, but this last time, it hadnt rained. Thanks for all your posts and for allowing me to vent. I can now see why the previous owner sold the vehicle. I don’t know if I would be able to sell it knowing that it will give the next owner problems. Other than this very upseting problem, the van is a very good.

Jimmy - March 20, 2011 at 3:05 pm

I am also having problems with teh coils on my 05 MPV LX. Question, how or can you just change the coil connectors?

Thanks!

Sandra Pruitt - April 4, 2011 at 10:57 am

My 2005 Mazda Tribute v-6 (86k miles) had the same problems everyone listed here – jerking, running extremely rough, etc. Diagnosed as a bad coil and blown computer. Extremely expensive – 1 coil replaced, all spark plugs replaced and diagnosis = appx $500 plus new computer $900. Drove it appx. 5 days – another coil blown. In the shop now. MAZDA SHOULD BE ASHAMED TO NOT EXTEND A RECALL TO ADDRESS THIS OBVIOUS DEFECT IN THESE ENGINES. My advice – never buy a MAZDA.

Retha Roeder - April 21, 2011 at 2:37 am

I also have a 2005 Mazda MPV.. and have replaced all but 2 of my ignition coils.. well the dealership has.. at one point I had to replace that cytalic coverter because of this.. and now its at it again. Every time it rains the blasted engine light begins to flash at me. I’ve read that this is one of Mazdas biggest faults.. With gas prices today its really sad that the van just sucks it right up. I’d like to get rid of it, but its paid for and can’t afford a car payment right now.. I WON’T BE LOOKING TO GET ANOTHER MAZDA!!!!! THATS FOR SURE..

GB - April 22, 2011 at 6:36 pm

I can’t seem to get heat in the back of my 2004 MPV. Anyone have any ideas as to what the problem might be?

John - April 25, 2011 at 8:52 am

Jacob..I have a Mazda 6 Wagon with 97,000 and as of today I will have replaced all 6 coils!!! I can’t believe that there has not been a recall by Mazda as the problem appears to be pervasive. I just found this site, so I have been going to my local station at $90 per coil plus installation. Two went bad yesterday and I decided to have the last one changed proactively. I wish I had known about the six pack!! Any news from Mazda on recalls?

jim - May 12, 2011 at 8:57 am

I’m getting quotes on having #3 coil replaced on my 2004 MPV. Any clue to which side the #3 coil is on? If it’s the ‘back’ it will cost much more than replacing the ‘front’ coils.

Any idea?

Jim - May 12, 2011 at 10:27 am

Would anyone happen to know what side of the engine coil #3 is on? It is a quite a difference in cost if the replacement coil is in front or back of the engine. The mechanic quoted about 3x as much for the back as the front. Just would like to know before I take it in.

Dave - May 12, 2011 at 12:30 pm

GB: I believe that the MPV has two packages available: a hot weather and a cold weather package. My MPV has the hot weather package, which means that I can only have A/C pumped to the rear of the vehicle. It gets chilly in the back of the van in the winter, but it’s great in the summer. I’ve tried turning the A/C all the way to hot in order to get heat in the back, but it does not have any effect. There may be others on here with more insight, but this is what I believe the situation to be.

shon - May 19, 2011 at 8:32 am

I have a 2002 mazda mpv es 3.0 and it started skiping I replaced all spark plugs it done fine for a few months now it started miss firing on cyclinder #6 and 5 then the other day I crunk it up. And when I put it in gear it cut off. done that a couple times and then wouldn’t crank at all and when you check the fire it sparks one time all three front coils and then quites and want fire again until u cut key all the way off and try again I replaced cam and crank shaft sensor and did nothing does this sound like coils or maybe timing

Tom Hammond - May 25, 2011 at 2:06 pm

Jacob, first thanks so much for all this good information. I am here in Altoona Pa,16601

I just ordered a 6 pack of coils(105.00) for my 2004 MPV ES it has 105000+ I have had at least 3 replaced so far in the last 3 years. I do not think I paid more then 125 for each time that is parts and labor. So I must have good guy doing my work. But going to do the work myself this time just to save even more. I am going to replace the plugs also,does anyone have idea what I should use this will be the first new set for my car. I can not remember the last time I put plugs in a car. so I am not up on what is a good plug anymore. I really like my MPV over all,so going to keep it as long as I can keep it runing as a second car. May look into a Madza 5 later as my retirement car next year. Does anyone have a good or bad feel for them???

Thanks again Tom Hammond

Tom Hammond - June 2, 2011 at 7:38 pm

My son and I just replacement all 6 coils and plugs. Not too bad a job took about 2 hours taking are time. So far so good van running good form having 10500 + miles.

Tom Hammond - June 2, 2011 at 7:40 pm

Make that 105000

Rolling - June 26, 2011 at 11:28 am

Our 2003 MPV just had a cylinder #5 misfire CEL (and loss of power) both before and after a coil #5 replacement (all spark plugs were also replaced).

Can anyone comment on the claim by ‘buzzk’ that the factory coils have a vent which permits water to short the plugs:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1025bf/54#MSG54

This explanation would account for the fact that our failures occur while travelling and on holidays (when our car is not in a garage) and after rainfalls and in the morning.

Has anyone identified coils which do or do not have this venting?

Rolling - June 26, 2011 at 1:03 pm

An update:

Yesterday morning, I couldn’t touch the accelerator without the check-engine light flashing (with loss of power and rough riding). Today, I waited until 4pm when it was over 90 degrees outside. I let the MPV warm up for 5 minutes, and then I drove it around and couldn’t make the check engine light flash once. It does look like something is getting wet.

Rick Molera - June 27, 2011 at 7:13 pm

Replacing ignition coils in 2004 Mazda MPV:

GREAT information! My Bride and I purchased an MPV 2004 mazda, with 79K miles, in February. We started having problems with hesitation and jerking, starting in April.

So, I found this fantastic site which provided the link required to purchase six new ignition coils and six new plugs – $150. I then took the new parts to my honest mechanic who replaced all six, both sets, for $250. Total cost = $400.

We just took a vacation to Las Vegas, 625 miles round trip. The MPV ran GREAT!

post script: A knowledgeable Checker Auto Part specialist echoed the fact that original Mazda ignition coils were JUNK. The after market replacements have proven to be much more dependable.

So, take the advice on this site, replace all six coils and plugs! Your MPV minivan will run like new! Six cylinder powered engine, unleashed!

Thanks for all the fantastic advice!

Happy MPV owner in Phoenix AZ!

;-]]

Keith Taylor - July 12, 2011 at 5:35 am

In 2004, I puchased a new MPV for my wife. I must say, it has been a perfect fit for her, and a good van for the family. Now, with nearly 70k on it, we are addressing a second coil issue. After reading all the comments, I now know this is going to be a re-occurring problem. After these latest repairs, we will be selling the van. I must admit, I will miss it. Thank you all for the insight.

rich - July 23, 2011 at 8:08 am

Hi I have a 2005 MPV and it was running fine. Now it just cranks but won’t start. I hear the fuel pump kicking in but just won’t start. It seems like it wants to when the gas pedal is pressed but once release it boggs n shuts off. Any suggestions?

Andrea Bertolo - August 9, 2011 at 10:20 am

I have the same problem with my 2004 MPV van. I just had to get another one replaced (this will be 4) & the dealer charged me $400!! I tried to get Mazda to pay for it, but they refused & obviously care little about their customers. It should have been a recall, but Mazda would rather screw their customers!

PS Is anyone’s van also rusting prematurely?

Donelle - August 13, 2011 at 12:27 am

Is it possible we could get a class action lawsuit here? Ignition coil problems have ruined two family vacations and put my kids at risk being stranded on busy highways, etc. Would anyone else be interested in finding an attorney that would represent each and every one of us here against Mazda? I just returned from a one week family vacation, 5 days of which were spent without transportation because our van was in the shop. I am beyond over this!

Jacob - October 28, 2011 at 7:49 am

Rich, it sounds like it could be a bad PCV hose. There was a recall for 2002-2003s but it affected mine as well and I had to replace it. Here’s the recall notice: http://mpvclub.com/recalls.php?id=17

Here’s a new PCV hose on ThePartsBin.com for $17.95+s/h. The hose is listed as a 2002-2003 but should work fine for your ’04.

Mele Welte - May 22, 2012 at 4:14 pm

We have had our Mazda 2004 MPV since 2005. It only has 52k miles on it. We are now headed back to the shop for the third time with the ignition coils problems. Exactly a year ago today we got it out of the garage with coils 1-2-3 and spark plugs replaced. It ran fine until about a month ago when it started missing while accelerating. Today the engine warning light came on. We are scheduled for another shop visit next week, estimate at $700 to $800. The previous two shop visits for new ignition coils were covered by an extended warranty we had then, we paid $100 deductible twice. But now it is not a very happy experience to have to pay big bucks for a repair that may happen again in another year. We only drive about 4k a year here in Honolulu. So now I am going to check into buying the parts and finding a good mechanic. We love our van, but this is just too much to have to deal with each year. Yes! As someone recommended, a class action suit would be great if we could find enough unhappy knowledgeable 2001-2005 MPV owners to file a suit together. It does seem that this issue should have been a recall by Mazda way back 10 years ago!! Why didn’t they fix this problem after they discovered it in the 2001 and 2002 years??? Thanks to all of you who have given your info here! Much appreciated!! Aloha!

Smshah - June 2, 2012 at 5:11 pm

I bought my mazda mpv 2004 brand new. I had to get one plug and coil changed and cost me $600. After six or seven month had to get back and got second coil and plug changed. This was another $600 bucks. I still own my Mazda with 190,404 miles. Running fine. Now I need a new water pump and plugs starting to let go. I will be changing the water pump and all six plugs including the coils. I love this van. I have literary abused this car. Planing to drive to Canada next month from orlando, Florida and back. Made 5 round trips to NJ Florida in 2010.

jldorfman - June 5, 2012 at 6:59 pm

The coils on our 2004 MPV started to fail when the car was six years old and had maybe 55,000 miles. We were on the highway 150 miles from home. Fortunately, a gas station directed us to a Mazda dealer who made initial repairs that day. We paid a lot to have the coils fixed by a dealer. My understanding is that the Mazda engine is the same used in the Ford Taurus. Is there a history of faulty coils in the Taurus? Also, our latest problem with the MPV is worn out wheel bearings at 8 years and 69,000 miles!

dbrown - November 16, 2012 at 9:05 am

I’ve been having some jerky etc for several months but nothing really serious, mostly when it warms up and at a stop sign. I changed the plugs with a local mechanic but not the coils as my friend who works at a Mazda dealership said wait. Now I’m wishing I had just changed the coil pack. The engine light tripped this morning and after a read it says #2 and #6 misfire. So, I’m going to go ahead and order new packs. The carparts.com site has one for $15 and one for $47. Which one (price) is the best pack to buy? The $15 one has a 1-year unlimited mile warranty, while the $47 has a 3000 mile or 90-day warranty.

mary cook - November 24, 2012 at 5:07 pm

i agfree with lawsuit for the mazda mpv…all mine does is skip and skip……..it is horrible

Sandra Kelly - June 3, 2013 at 11:30 pm

Hi there, yes my Mazda has same problem!!! I am from Australia and just wondering if anyone knows if I buy the ignition coils off Amazon which is Amrican parts, will they be compatible with my Australian MPV? It is heaps cheaper than buying parts here in Oz.

Pam - June 8, 2013 at 5:08 am

Hi all I have just got a 2004 Mazda van a week ago for what I seen it as a good buy I guess the last owner know it was going to happen with 151 km on it. It’s runny ruff my husband did a code reading on it the erased it don’t now if that’s a type thing to do but it’s working for now ? But I guess I need to fix this also :(

samir - January 26, 2014 at 12:51 pm

fix it for good:)) Hi every one I had the same issue with my Mazda van. I been a mechanic for about 7 years on my own, But I would like to share this. The problem with the coil design it self. So if you change the coils on ur own or take it to a mechanic you have to take the coil a part it comes in 2 part if you pull the long part. and that’s where the spring sets in side, you can keep the spring attach to the coil. Now fill the short area where the spring attach to the coil with electric grease. and you will never have this problem again. don’t use the old coils unless its not rusty, the are hard to clean, So if you have over 80k on the car bye new ones. don’t just change them with out using the grease. thank u.

samir - January 26, 2014 at 12:55 pm

If any one needs help with the coils. email me for more help . And till other ppl to help them with this issue on other sites. samirfalah75@yahoo.com

Irwin - June 12, 2014 at 7:04 am

I have same problem of rough driving and idling on Mazda 2004 MPV LX van, have only 32900 miles and garage kept car. Looks like ignition coil problems described here. Afraid to take it to dealer,will probably cost lots of money. Mazda knows about this problem but has not done anything. No more Mazda cars in future.

Angelina - July 1, 2014 at 9:28 am

I have been having trouble with my mazda 2004 for a long time. I would like to get in on this law suit.

Cynthia Alvarez - October 23, 2015 at 11:25 am

I WOULD LIKE TO BE INCLUDED FOR A LAWSUIT AGAINDT MAZDA FOR DEFECTIVE COILS ON MAZDA MPV 2004

Mai Vang - November 18, 2015 at 12:35 am

Hi all. I too have a 2004 Mazda MPV and have had so much trouble with it, a class action lawsuit sounds really nice right about now. Anyway, the van is roughly at 125,000 miles but I’ve been having issues early on, not to mention I bought it brand new. Over the years, I’ve replaced 3 or 4 ignition coils, I think I also replaced spark plugs last year (can’t remember), a catalytic converter (on Mazda), a fan module of some sort because the fan is was always running. It stopped for about a year and now it’s happening again….(sighs). Anyone else has this problem and how to go about fixing it? About 2 months ago, the engine light came on and I neglected it (I’m fed up with the recurring issues) but recently had the codes read and three different people gave me different readings. Codes are P0151, P0152, P0171, P0174 which all points to O2 sensor (Bank 1 and 2 running lean???) and P0300 misfire, which could possibly be due to the other codes. Has anyone had these codes? If so, what did you do to replace it? My uncle and friend are not comprehending why the O2 sensor would come up as one of the codes. I’m planning to buying O2 sensors, ignition coils, and spark plugs from eBay to repair what I think the problem is. Question is, those parts on eBay are priced pretty low compared to other places, are they any good?

Mai - November 18, 2015 at 12:56 am

In addition to what I posted above, I should also add that lately the car to shake/jump while idling at a stop sign/light. At first, I was afraid of the car dying on me, now I shift gear to neutral while idling. Just waiting to get this car fixed. Oh and I also replaced 2 batteries (2010 and 2015), not sure if it was related to any of the issues I’ve been having. Please if anyone has any ideas how to rid this problem, do share. Thanks!