Comments on: Replacing ignition coils in 2004 Mazda MPV

By: JC

JC — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 19:46:31 +0000

Ditto on the coil problems. I’m so angry at Mazda for playing dumb on this matter, I doubt I’ll be buying another Mazda.

We’ve had multiple coil failures on our ‘03. Sometimes the CEL comes on, other times it doesn’t. I think what’s happened it one coil will fail with no CEL, and once the second one fails, it’ll finally kick on the CEL.

Beware, it seems that running with a failed coil will foul the catalytic converter and cause it to eventually fail. This is expensive if it’s beyond the warranty period for emission parts.

By: HemM

HemM — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 16:07:33 +0000

Thanks for your post. I have Mazda MPV and have problem with the right hand side power sliding door. Not able to open or close using driver side switch or door side switch. Any idea what issue might be? Some of the auto forums talks about fuses to be replaced and not sure that is the specification of the fuse that is responsible for the power sliding door.
Thanks again!

By: Jeff D

Jeff D — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 12:41:40 +0000

I certainly thank all that wrote above, I have a 03 MPV with simular problems. It is certainly a defect issue. I was wanting to add that my 01 F-150 has about the same setup (coil for each plug) and have had the same trouble. I have changed 2 coils in it. Thanks again for the site info this will save some money.

By: Jacob Hammond

Jacob Hammond — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 22:33:03 +0000

Dave, that’s interesting, since mine always ran fine when cold and got bad as it warmed up. Still guessing it’s the coils, though. If you do get a CEL, you can read the code (with a code reader, or have a mechanic do it) to determine which coil is bad; otherwise there’s no easy way that I know of to test.

By: Dave

Dave — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 15:54:57 +0000

We have an 04 MPV, and it’s having similar issues. But on our van, the symptoms start when the engine is cold. (mild jerks and hesitations.) They gradually go away as it gets up to operating temperature. But I’m still assuming it’s got a bad coil.

I understand the wisdom of replacing all three rear coils at the same time. but is there a way to actually tell which coil is bad or which is going bad? (By the way, CEL has never come on this whole time.)

Thanks!

By: Joel

Joel — Thu, 13 May 2010 21:20:04 +0000

Thanks for your insights. I own a 04 MPV and we are, as I type getting the #1 coil replaced. Several years ago, while the van was still under warranty a dealer replace the #5 coil. I’m wondering, with all of the problems, clearly a design issue why this hasn’t been a recall issue that Mazda has needed to pay for? Just a thought. Also, looks as if we are going to need the two Catalytic converters replaced also. Great, just great!

By: edwin

edwin — Mon, 10 May 2010 15:00:45 +0000

its a shame that all these same veh has this problem,,nitheir the mazda dealer or who ever did the modification on mazda never fix it,,,not even the people that sold us this veh kept quite about it ,,my mazda has being in the shop for this problem 5 times they told me that the last time it was there it was just going to cost me $100.00 but they came back to me and told me that they was two other coils that where bad .the total cost was $316.22…but since the veh is not fully pay for and is my wife veh the only thing is to order the whole set and wait till it happens again ,,,,,,I wish this mail goes directly to the mazda corparation and fix the problem on these van ,,,,i personally love this mazda mvp ,,,

By: Jacob Hammond

Jacob Hammond — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 00:23:05 +0000

Danni, based on the fact that it is stalling when slowing down, I’d say the IAC valve is definitely at fault. Replacing it as described in this post should fix the issue:
http://neveradudelikethisone.com/2009/03/2004-mazda-mpv-stalling-and-rough-idle-replacing-the-idle-air-control-iac-valve

I never had any instances of stalling while traveling at freeway speeds (except, of course, when I slowed down), but the IAC valve may be at fault there as well.

If, after replacing the valve, you notice occasional “skipping” or general loss of power after 10-15 minutes of driving (and also still have a TCS light), it’s quite likely that one or more of the coils are at fault. Dannysentme’s how-to guide is really helpful (see the last comment before yours), and the coils are pretty cheap compared to what a dealership or mechanic will charge you.

By: Danni

Danni — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 00:14:26 +0000

I have a 2004 MPV van which I love, the problem is that it is stalling both on the interstate doing 75 and also it appears to stall when slowing down (approaching light etc). The TCS light stays on unless I turn the engine off. It always starts right up if I turn the engine completely off, but if I just put it in neutral and restart, sometimes it will and sometimes not but the TCS light will always stay on. I took it to a mechanic and he put it on the computer and he said it needed a transmission remitter (I think thats right) $350 later problem not solved same issue on the way home from the shop. It seems like every where I turn on the forums I am reading about coils…..do you think this could be causing my problem?

By: Dannysentme

Dannysentme — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 04:13:05 +0000

Hello everyone,

This is a great forum. Inspired by all of you and the post above, I ended up doing my own work and replaced the back three coils and plugs. I gave a write up on the mpvclub.com forum and even posted pics of my 2004 MPV. Check it out here:

http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=23912&highlight=2004+mpv+coil+plug+replacement

I hope this helps someone that was in agony like I was, now I’m happy.

Thanks!

Dannysentme